The Difference Between Windows Full Format & Quick Format [Technology Explained]

We’ve all seen it before. Whether you’ve just finished building your own custom computer out of parts, or your old box finally needs a fresh-up, at some point or another we’ve manually installed Windows. For some people it’s a glorious day where you get to start anew, while for others it’s a horrible day because it means you probably crashed your system beyond all reasonable repair because of too much tweaking and you’d rather have it done as soon as possible.
At one point or another the installer will ask you a strange question – how do you want to format your hard drive? For Windows systems, there are only a few possible answer choices. You either format it in NTFS or FAT, or you format it in NTFS or FAT (quick). Have you ever stopped to wonder what the difference actually is between a quick format vs full format?

Is There Really A Difference?

If you see “quick and easy” versus “absolute time waster” as the presented options instead of full format and quick format, I will have to inform you that Microsoft isn’t wasting your time for fun. Yes, there are indeed technological differences between the two options, and what each option essentially does. Understanding the effects of what you choose can be very important, depending on a couple of factors that you’ll have to decide on. To do that, we’ll dissect each option to figure out exactly what happens.

What Happens In A Full Format

quick format vs full format
Most experts say that choosing the full format feature (preferably NTFS over FAT) is better suited for your computer. For a handful of reasons, this is correct. A full format completely wipes your hard drive. After a full format, there shouldn’t be any recoverable data left that a program could sniff out.
A full format also checks the hard drive for bad sectors. If you haven’t switched out your hard drive for a newer one, your old computer will have a hard drive that will most likely be, well, old. Old things, as we know, tend to break more often, depending on what it is. Therefore, old hard drives are more prone to getting bad sectors (although the possibility can still exist for brand new hard drives, provided data was written onto the hard drive in a way where it becomes corrupt.
If the full format finds a bad sector, it will attempt to fix it. A successful fix means that your hard drive is once again fully functional and all space on it can be used. Finally, the tables of the new filesystem are carefully constructed on the hard drive and checked before the actual installation begins.

What Happens In A Quick Format

On the other hand, we have a quick format. A quick format is almost the complete opposite of a full format (it’s almost because it has to do something to even be called a quick format). Instead of treating your hard drive to a nice manicure, pedicure, and what else, a quick format will only delete the journalling part of the filesystem. In case you don’t know, NTFS, ext3 and ext4, as well as HFS+ are all journalling filesystems. This means that a “journal” is kept in order to keep track of what files even exist and where they can be located on the hard drive. A quick format simply wipes this journal, and lays a new, simple, and blank filesystem on top. That’s it.
It doesn’t really rebuild the filesystem, it doesn’t scan for bad sectors, and it doesn’t delete the data that’s on there. Therefore, assuming that no new data has been written back onto the hard drive to overwrite the “hidden” old data, one could use a file recovery program to find and re-save virtually every file that was on the hard drive before the quick format. As you may have guessed, this isn’t the best choice if you’re concerned about security.

Conclusion

So at the end of the day, which formatting style should you choose? If you quite frankly still can’t decide on your own, I’d follow the experts’ recommendation and do a full format, as it’s worth the time to save your hard drive from potentially permanent damage in the future. A full format will also help to increase the speed, efficiency, and stability of the hard drive. However, you may judge upon the two methods on your own and choose what you think is best for you.
What formatting option do you typically select? Which filesystem that has ever been created do you believe is the best? Let us know in the comments!

Setting up JDK on you computer: So You Can Begin Java Programming


  • Go to google.com
  • Search “Java JDK”
  • Most likely click the first link (which should be a download page: here is the current site: http://www.oracle.com/technetwork/java/javase/downloads/index.html)
  • There should be four options to download (Java Platform JDK, JDK + JavaFX Bundle, JDK+ Java Beans, and JDK+ Java EE Bundle)  any of those options are fine to download, to follow along with this tutorial, just download the Java Platform JDK.
  • Install just like any other program, with all the default settings (Click next a bunch of times, read Term&Conditions, etc.)
  • Click the Start Button (yes this is tutorial for Windows) and go to My Computer
  • Click on the main harddrive (for most it is C:)
  • Click on the Program Files folder> Open up the folder called Java
  • Click on the version of Java you downloaded (something like jdk1.6.0_12)
  • Open the bin folder
  • Inside the bin Folder look for the File called javac, and right-click on it and go to Properties
  • A new window should pop up giving the properties of the javac, there should be an attribute called Location.  Find the and copy the path (example: “C:\Program Files\Java\jdk1.6.0_ 12\bin”
  • Now we have the Path Location, so Click the start button again and right-click on the “Computer” and open up the “Properties”.
  • In the left side bar look for “Advanced system settings” and open that up (Click Continue)
  • Towards the bottom of the popup, Click “Environment Variables…”
  • Set up a new  User variable by clicking the top most “New..” button (under the “User variables for xxxxx”)
  • for the Variable name, type: Path
  • and for the Variable value, paste your Location of the javac, for example:     C:\Program Files\Java\jdk1.6.0_ 12\bin
  • Click OK on all three popups and close your System settings panel as well.
  • open up the command prompt again (Click start and type “cmd” in the search, press enter)
  • Type “javac” in the command prompt and your problems should be solved

MBR Recovery

You're actually a WinXp user and installed Linux as a secondary OS just to have a look at it?
You installed the Lilo Bootloader too, and now want to get rid of both and get back to WinXp without having to
reinstall the whole system or to install a secondary bootloader?
Then this is the right guide for you! It's as simple as 123, believe me.
(Important: To perform this operation it is inalienable that you're still able to start up your Windows XP operating system!
Furthermore this guides assumes that your operating system is on Harddisk 0, drive C:\)

1. Put the WinXP in your cdrom drive (supposed to be d:)
2. Click start -> Run -> and type: d:\i386\winnt32.exe /cmdcons
This will download and install the "Recovery Console"
3. Rightklick "My Computer" -> Properties. The System properties pop up. Click on the "Advanced" tap and then the
"Settings" button"
4. Make sure that "Time to display list of operating systems" is enabled!
5. Restart your PC and start the Recovery Console when the System prompts you.
6. When the Recovery Console prompts you to start a system, just type "1" and push enter.
7. When the Recovery Console has finished loading, type in the following lines:

fixmbr /device/harddisk0

Just ignore all the warning and type "y" for yes.

8. Restart the system
9. Once you've finished this operation you might want to disable the "Time to display..." option in the system panel.

Congrats! You've just successfully restored your Master Boot Record to it's original state!

Alternatively or if you can no longer boot to the harddisk, configure your BIOS to start from cd and boot to the Windows XP cd. At the "Welcome to Setup" screen select R. This will load the recovery console.

Create your own Self-extracting / self-installing Package

The following will show you how to use the Iexpress2.0 tool.

The tool allows you to make a self extracting file and much more : To play with this hidden feature of XP :

Navigate to : Windows\system32\
 
look for a file called iexpress.exe.

Double left click on it  and follow the wizzard.

How to prevent users from installing programs in Windows 7

You can if you wish restrict users from installing programs in Windows 7 , Windows Vista, Windows XP , Windows 2000 & Windows Server family. You can do so by using certain Group Policy settings to control the behavior of the Windows Installer, prevent certain programs from running or restrict via the Registry Editor.

The Windows Installer, msiexec.exe, previously known as Microsoft Installer, is an engine for the installation, maintenance, and removal of software on modern Microsoft Windows systems.
1) Disable or restrict the use of Windows Installer via Group Policy.

NV4_DISP Infinite Loop FIXED

Right click-mouse over My Computer
Properties
Hardware(Tab)
Device Manager(button)
Click [+] next to System devices
right-mouse on CPU to AGP Controller (or whatever your controller is called)
Update Driver(button)

Select Install from a list or specific location (Advanced)
Next(button)
Select Don't search. I will choose the driver to install.
Next(button)
Select PCI standard PCI-to-PCI bridge
Next(button)
Finish(button)
Reboot.

The Golden Rules of Burning

1. Buy good media (like Taiyo Yuden or Verbatim) that is suited to your burner AND players (see here). In particular, steer clear of cheap stuff like CMC Magnetics. Cheap media is the major source of burning problems.

ONLY use Verbatim +R disks for dual layer burns - get the +R ones, 2.4x, MKM-001-00, Made in Singapore.

(Note: Disks with the media ID code of Ritek G05 have proven to be quite variable in quality).

2. Make sure your burner's firmware is up to date (see here).

3. Make sure DMA is on for all devices on all IDE channels (see here).

4. Burn at 4x max (8x on really good media). It only takes an extra few minutes.

If you got the above 4 things down pat, you'll probably never have another burn error!!!

5. Do not try to set the booktype (bitsetting) on -R disks (see here).

6. Don't try to burn -R disks in a burner that will only take +R (and vice-versa).

7. If you burn with Nero, make sure it is up to date (download package 1 here) and because InCD has been known to conflict, remove it (use the InCD Clean Tool).

Better still, burn ISO images with ImgBurn and avoid Nero altogether. ImgBurn is free!!

8. Verify afterwards and test your burn.

9. Don't ever put adhesive labels on your burned disks .

10. USB burners have their own special intricacies - make sure you have a USB 2 port, connect no other USB devices and burn slowly (preferably 1x) - see here for more info.

What's all this about DMA?


DMA, if on, can greatly speed up communications between your PC and its hard drive and DVD/CD drives.

The following assumes your hard drive is on the primary channel and the CD/DVD drive is on the secondary.

To check if it is on:
  1. Right click on My Computer
  2. Select Properties
  3. Click on Hardware
  4. Click on Device Manager
  5. Double click on IDE ATA/ATAPI controllers
  6. Double click on Primary channel
  7. Click Advanced Settings and check it says DMA if available and is set to Ultra DMA, mode 5.
  8. Do the same for the secondary channel -- it should be Ultra DMA, mode 2.

Don't worry if it says "Not applicable" - it means there is no device connected to that port.

The following diagram shows my primary channel (I have 2 hard drives connected):


If your PC doesn't have DMA enabled, the easiest way to re-enable it is to remove the channel and reboot. Windows will then automatically reinstall it and reset the counters that deactivated DMA in the first place.

To remove the channel:
  1. Right click on the relevant channel in Device Manager (you know how to get there - follow steps 1 thru 5 above 
  2. Click on uninstall
  3. Reboot
  4. When you have rebooted (and the drive and been recognised by Windows again), go back to Device Manager and change the setting to DMA if available.
  5. Windows NT/2000 users reboot again. XP users, you're good to go.

Creating Windows Freedb Database

Windows database:

freedb-win-20061101

data size: 2.00 GB
size on disk: 2.01 GB

2.729 files in 11 directories

File system: NTFS
cluster size: 4 kB



How to install and update the freedb database:


Windows systems:


1) base file: freedb-win-[date].rar (possibly also available in other compression formats like .7z )

2) update file(s): freedb-update-[newer date].tar.bz2

[newer date]:

The period specified here
has to begin just before or on the same date of the base file (has to include it)
or has to begin maximum one day later (has to be a continuation of it).

3) tool: freedb-updater_v0.33-setup.exe (has to be installed)

4) Decompress the .RAR-file from 1) to a directory of your choice

5) Start freedb - Windows Database Updater v0.33 and select the freedb-win-[date] directory.
Then select the .TAR.BZ2 file from 2)
Press "Start ..."
Wait a few (or more) minutes until all is done.

23 ways to speed up windows XP

Since defragging the disk won't do much to improve Windows XP performance, here are 23 suggestions that will. Each can enhance the performance and reliability of your customers' PCs. Best of all, most of them will cost you nothing.

1.) To decrease a system's boot time and increase system performance, use the money you save by not buying defragmentation software -- the built-in Windows defragmenter works just fine -- and instead equip the computer with an Ultra-133 or Serial ATA hard drive with 8-MB cache buffer.

2.) If a PC has less than 512 MB of RAM, add more memory. This is a relatively inexpensive and easy upgrade that can dramatically improve system performance.

How to Back up Mozilla Firefox and Thunderbird

Firefox and Thunderbird Firefox users need to back up regularly to guard against the possibility that their profile gets corrupted or wiped after installing a new extension or a new version of Firefox. If you use Thunderbird then it's even more important that you back up to ensure you don't accidentally lose your email correspondence and account settings.

There are two ways to back up: use a backup utility or do it yourself manually.

How to check your DMA status & reset it if necessary

Explanation of DMA:

DMA is an abbreviation for Direct Memory Access, an access method for external devices where the data transfer is not done by the central processor, but by a small special processor called DMA controller. It uses a procedure called cycle stealing, where the central processor memory access cycles are delayed for very short times to intersperse DMA controller memory access cycles. Some newer, faster DMA modes are called UDMA (Ultra DMA).

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